The Fishline

Helpful Reef Notes

1. Setup
2. Filtration
3. Lighting
4. Jaubert
5. Algae Curse
6. Water Quality
7. Disease
8. Medications
9. Calcium
10. Strontium
11. Molybdenum
12. Iodine
13. Symbols
14. Tables

SETTING UP A TROUBLE FREE REEF TANK

1: Plan it out, time frame and reef structure.
HAVE PATIENCE!
2: Keep the tank empty and all tank lights off.
3: Set up the trickle filter and flow saltwater through only the filter section. Keep salinity at SG 1.026. About 1.022 at 78* F.
4: Establish the biological filter in the trickle filter with a source of inorganic nitrogen {ammonium chloride and / or sodium nitrite}.
5: Once the biological filter is established {0 amm, 0-2 PPM nitrite} change all filter water and fill the main tank.
6: Add all live rock to main tank and carefully build the reef structure. Set the rocks with many open spaces to allow water to flow through the reef. Use cleaned rock or clean it of dead growths and cure it in a dark, filtered tank for 10-15 days before adding it to the reef tank. Include at least one rock with coralline algal growths.
7: Circulate water through the entire system with no tank lights and no marine life other than live rock and coralline algae for 2-4 weeks, add a coralline algae seed rock if coralline algae are not present.
8: Remove nutrients from the system by cleaning the mechanical filter each day and running a strong PROTEIN SKIMMER. Wash detritus off the reef rocks every day or two. Siphon detritus off the tank bottom frequently.
9: When detritus formation stops or slows, and ammonia and nitrates are at 00 perform the largest water change possible. Use water that has been mixed and stored in darkness for 2-5 days after mixing, to remove and avoid additions of nutrients.
10: Allow 2-4 days for the system to stabilize, and then check the calcium level, bring the calcium level to 420 PPM if necessary.
11: Gradually bring lighting to full intensity, and photo period over a period of 7-10 days. Add Turbo and Astrea snails and macro green algae.
12: If you want to place an anemone in the tank, now is the time, so it can find a place to attach and stay. If you put one in later it could possibly end up injuring itself. Wait about 2-3 days to make sure it stays. After this, begin adding hardy reef corals, e.g. Bubble, Frogspawn, Hammer, Plate, and other soft corals, invertebrates and fish SUITABLE for a coral reef tank.

AVOID ADDITIONS OF NUTRIENTS !!

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JAUBERT

A brief description of the basic aquarium setup follows. First a grid is placed in the aquarium 1 inch above the bottom. It is covered with plastic screen with a 1 millimeter {mm} mesh. A 2 inch layer of coarse {1-3 mm} coral sand covers the mesh. A second screen covers this coarse sand, followed by another 2 inch layer of sand.Rocks are piled to form your reef structure with open spaces for good water flow. This leaves most of the bottom sand exposed to perform water filtration.The aquarium is filled with seawater and seeded with living sand {sand containing living organisms such as worms and bacteria}, usually from another system. Ammonia is added to feed the organisms in the sand, and live rock is also added during this cycle period.
The water is circulated by pumps, air stones, or a combination of the two. The cycle proceeds through a normal biological filter cycle, where first the ammonia level drops, then the nitrite level rises and falls to zero. Conditioning is allowed to continue until the nitrate level drops to near zero. Only then are corals and other animals added.Filamentous algae are present only briefly during the startup of the tank. Once the nitrate level drops and grazers are added, the algae disappear. Aquariums are stocked with a diverse mixture of grazing invertebrates and fish. Some aquariums with heavy loads of fish have an additional sand filter behind the scenes.
The long term maintenance program includes replacing the metal halide bulbs once a year. To prevent photo shock to the animals from the brighter new bulbs, the fixtures are raised when the bulbs are replaced and gradually lowered throughout the year. An average of 5 % of the saltwater is exchanged per month.

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ALGAE CURSE

In essence, the problem with microalgae is that they propagate on dissolved organics as
well as phosphate, nitrate, and other nutrients in the tank water, and need only very little light intensity to flourish compared to the invertebrates we are trying to culture instead. My experience, is that Atlantic rock has a greater propensity to develop microalgae problems. Using good porous pacific live rock exclusively gives a much better result in my experience. Here are my thoughts:

1. mechanically remove as much of the microalgae as possible.

2. check the silicate, nitrate, and phosphate of your tank, makeup freshwater, and saltwater.

3. use phosphate and silicate removers as needed. For these have worked well for me.

4. use a good grade of activated carbon that will not leach phosphates. I have had excellent results with Wilken's GAC Hydrocarbon.

5. use the most efficient skimming that you possibly can.

6. use good microalgae grazers. I have had excellent results with the herbivore mix you can order through the website of the GARF folks (Geothermal Aquaculture Resource Foundation).

7. stop adding complex water supplements until the problem is under control. Add only Ca, Sr, and even hold off on iodine unless you already have inverts in the tank.

8. if your lighting system is fluorescent and the blue-green wavelengths do not predominate, change your lamps so that this mix of light results. Also, determine if your lamps are old enough that they need changing, since the light output shifts over time.
An initial microalage bloom is relatively common during the establishment phase of a new reef system, unless you are using good porous pacific live rock that has been cured for a reasonably long time, say two months or more.

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CALCIUM

NATURAL LEVELS ARE ABOUT 400 PPMMAINTAIN REEF TANKS AT ABOUT 420 PPM

A calcium supplement {calcium hydroxide - kalkwasser or lime water} can be added on a continuous basis by use of a drip water system, to make up for evaporating water.

Calcium is available as a commercial preparation or mix 2 grams of calcium hydroxide in 1 liter {1.06 qrts} of distilled water. Cap the solution and mix well.
Heat is generated as the calcium hydroxide is mixing. After settling, a calcium rich solution is there above a white powder of calcium hydroxide powder.
The resulting powder is alkaline {caustic} and is dangerous to skin and eyes.
Add solution to the aquarium slowly and carefully so as not to increase the pH of the tank rapidly.

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STRONTIUM

Natural levels are about 8-10 PPM. Although there is no hobbyist's test for strontium, it can be added frequently with only positive effects on coral growth.
Dissolve 50 grams of strontium chloride into 500 milliliters of distilled water {a 10% solution} Add one drop per gallon {one ml per 25 gallons} once a week.

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MOLYBDENUM

Natural levels are about 10 ppb {parts per billion} A very small amount is required. This is usually provided by regular water changes. Commercial trace element mixes usually contain molybdenum and should be added if regular water changes are not made.

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IODINE

Natural levels are about 60 ppb. Iodine is removed by protein skimming and through biological activity. Commercial solutions are available - or prepare a stock solution of potassium iodide. Add 10 grams of potassium iodide to 100 ml of distilled water {a 10% solution}. Then for treatment, add 1 ml of this stock solution to 100 ml of water {or 10 ml to 1 liter} to make up the treatment solution. Add 10 ml of this treatment solution for each 25 gallons of tank water every two weeks.
Turn off the protein skimmer and carbon filtration for a few hours after iodine treatment of the reef tank. One may treat the tank with a greater concentration of iodine, but take care not to overdose. Some organisms, eg, xenia sp. do well with direct iodine application and others do not.

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SELECTED CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS

Ammonia - NH3

Ammonium - NH4+

Bicarbonate - HCO3-

Calcium carbonate - CaCO3
{chalk,calcite,aragonite}

Calcium chloride - CaCL2)

Calcium hydroxide - Ca{HO}2
{Kalkwasser,- Limewater}

Carbon dioxide - CO2

Carbonate - CO32-

Carbonic acid - H2CO3

Hydrogen sulfide - H2S

Magnesium carbonate - MgCO3

Nitrate - NO3-

Nitrite - NO2-

Sodium bicarbonate - NaHCO3
{baking soda, bicarbornate of soda}

Sodium carbonate, dry - Na2CO3
{soda ash}

Sodium carbonate, crystaline - NaHCO3
{washing soda, sal soda}

Sodium cloride - NaCI
{table salt, rock salt}

Sodium thiosulfate - Na2S2O3,5H2O
{dechlorinator}

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TABLES

1 liter [l] = 1000 ml, 1.06 qt, 2.1 pt

20 large drops or 25 small drops = aprox: 1 ml

1 teaspoon = 5 ml, 1/6 fl oz

1 tablespoon = 3 tsp 1/2 fl oz, 15ml

1 fluid ounce = 2 tbsp, 6 tsp, 29.6 ml

1 part per million = 1 ml or mg per l {mg/l}, 3.78mg/gal

1 gallon seawater = 8.5 lbs, 3.86 kg

To find the number of gallons in a rectangular or square
tank.
Multyply length x width x height in inches and divide by 231.

Full salinity seawater contains 35 to 37 parts per thousand
{ppt,%}salt. This is 35 to 37 grams per kilogram or liter
4.7 to 5 oz per gal, and 2.9 to 3.1 lbs per 10 gallons.
Approx: 2.7 to 3 lbs of artificial sea salt makes up
10 gallons of full salinity seawater.
True specific gravity {sg} of full strength seawater
{35 o/oo} is 1.0260
A standard hydrometer calibrated at 59*F {15c} reads
1.0234 sg at 77*F {25c}. Seawater at a salinity of 30 o/oo
has a true specific gravity of 1.0222.
A standard hydrometer reads 1.096 sg at 77*F.

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DISEASE CHART

This chart is to help identify the diseases affecting your fish, so a medication can be selected for treatment. When your fish seem to be ill, a full range of water tests should be performed to determine any possible cause of stress that may be causing the illness.
Not correcting aquarium water quality problems such as low or high PH, the presence of ammonia, low or high temperature, etc. Will not allow for effective treatment.

DISEASE	SYMPTOMS	CAUSES
Clamped Fins, Fin and Tail Rot	Fins are closed and pressed against body, fins are frayed or decaying.	External infections, fighting, parasites or bacterial infestations.
Dropsy	Fish is bloated with scales standing out.	Kidney damage. Result of kidney disease, or too strong of a drug use. A medication for internal infections should be used.
Body Fungus	White or gray stringy growth or film covering most of the body. May spread to fins and tail.	This is not a true fungus, but a bacterial infection.
True Fungus	White tufts or white stringy patches. Cotton-wool-like or threadlike growths on the body, fins, mouth, eyes or open wounds.	Growth occurs on wounds caused by bacterial or parasitic infections. A second medication should be used to prevent secondary infection and treatment for parasites may also be necessary.
Gill Disease	Gills are red and swollen	This is a bacterial infection.
Hemorrhage	Red streaks on fins usually near the body.	Bacterial infection common in livebearing and tropical fish.
Hexamita. Hole-in-the-Head.	Affected fish lose their appetite, their color becomes more intense and they begin to swim unevenly. Severe infections have pin-sized holes or lesions in the head region.	Hexamita is a single-celled parasite that most often infects discus, oscars, angelfish, gouramies, and some marine fishes.
ICH. Freshwater Ichthyophthirius or Saltwater Cryptocaryon.	Small white spots {salt-like} on the body and fins. Spots are consistent in size. Fish may "scratch" on the rocks or exhibit rapid breathing.	ICH is the most common disease afflicting fish in both fresh and saltwater aquariums. It can be contracted by most fish and can spread quickly. U.V. sterilizers are effective at preventing future infections.
Bacterial Inflammation	A reddening on or under the skin.	This is a bacterial infection. Water quality should be checked closely for ammonia and nitrite. High waste levels will allow infections to spread quickly.
Internal Parasites	Fish are thin, listless and color may darken.	Internal parasites are best treated with a medicated food or medication that is added to the food.
Popeye	Eyes protrude from their sockets.	This is a difficult disease to treat. Causes can include worm cataract, Fish tuberculosis and bacterial infections.
Rot	Flesh decays at the mouth or tail.	This is a bacterial and fungal infection that can spread very easily. Caution should be taken to prevent the disease from spreading to other tanks through nets, cleaning equipment, etc.
Velvet {freshwater} Oodium {saltwater} Protozoan Disease	Gray or yellowish brown, spotted dusting, mostly on body area. Especially near the dorsal fin area.	This single celled parasite usually attacks around a wound or ulcer. It may spread to the gills if left untreated.
Worms, flukes, gill flukes, and other multicellular external parasites	Lumps under scales or skin, rapid breathing with gaping gills, fish "scratching" on rocks or gravel or threadlike worms hanging from the fish.	A second medication should medication should also be used to prevent secondary infections of wounds left by the parasites.

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MEDICATIONS

The leading cause of disease in aquarium fish is poor water quality. High levl of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, incorrect pH levels, fluctuating temperature and other unstable variables cause stress on the fish and, eventually, the immune system.That is why it is extremely important to monitor water quality closely. If a fish does contract a disease, a full range of water tests should be done before medicating. A disease is nearly impossible to cure as long as any of the water quality parameters are not at acceptable levels.

MEDICATING AND MEDICATIONS

1: It si best to medicate a fish in a separate {hospital} tank with a bare bottom. treating an entire aquarium can effect the biological filter bed and result in high ammonia and nitrite levels. Many medications will kill live plants and invertebrates, discolor silicone and be absorbed in the aquarium gravel and decorations making it difficult to remove from the tank.2: Always follow manufacturers directions. Using too low a dose will not be efective and too high a dose may cause respiration problems, loss of appetite or even death. Be sure to do repeat treatments if recommended.3: Never mix medications in the same tank, unless told to do so by the manufacturer.4: Remove carbon, resins, poly-filters, turn off U.V. sterilizers ozonizers and protien skimmers when medicating. Filter medias and skimmers can remove medications and U.V. sterilizers and ozonizers can cause reactions with medications.

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FILTER FACTS

Aquarium filters are available in various sizes and styles to accommodate any type or size aquarium you choose. A good filter will provide high water quality and keep the water crystal clear for your viewing pleasure. To select the proper filter for your aquarium, you should understand the three different types of water filtration: Mechanical, Biological and Chemical.

MECHANICAL

The removal of suspended particles of fish waste, excess food, plant matter, dust and other debris from the water. Most filters provide mechanical filtration by way of a floss, cartridge, pad or sponge that trap debris as water passes through it.

CHEMICAL

Is achieved with carbon, resins, or other media which remove dissolved waste materials and organics that can cause odors and discolorations of the aquarium water. Chemical medias placed in the filter can also remove toxins, phosphates, nitrates, ammonia, and much more. Use the best media you can get.

BIOLOGICAL

The process in which beneficial bacteria convert organics that have broken down into toxic compounds, most importantly ammonia and nitrite, into far less toxic compounds, nitrate.There are several different types of filters available. Some provide only one type of filtration while others provide all three types. If a filter provides only one or two type of filtration, a second filter should be used to help supplement the system for the remaining type{s} of filtration.

PROTEIN SKIMMERS

Protein Skimmers, or skimmers, as they are commonly called, are as important a component of a Reef Systems as the trickle {wet/dry} filter itself. They are not, technically, "filters". Skimmers are used to remove organic matter and free floating algae from the water, before they have a chance to break down, reduce dissolved oxygen, and stress the biological filter in the process. There are different kinds of skimmers on the market and some do a better job than others. There is counter-current, cocurrent, and venturi. I prefer the latter. Venturi skimmers use a water pump to force water through a venturi valve to mix air with the water to create tiny air-bubbles to trap the organics that must be removed from the tank before they have a chance to break down. Venturi skimmers do not require air pumps or air stones to work like other skimmers do. They are smaller, more efficient and out perform regular skimmers of comparable size. If you are to buy then you should buy the best possible for your budget. Do not skimp on this item. It is one of the most necessary pieces of equipment for a healthy tank.

FILTERS

CANISTER FILTERS are usually placed beneath the aquarium. They provide mechanical and chemical filtration, many brands provide biological filtration, too. Canister filters are sealed and water is forced through it's filter media.

DIATOM FILTERS are used for polish cleaning the aquarium, usually once a week. They use powder diatomceous earth to filter out particles too small to be trapped by media used in conventional operating filters, "polishing" your water. In a reef tank, you should avoid using the powder, as this can cause algae problems and diatomaceous powder may suffocate corals and invertebrates. Instead of using the powder in the reef tank, you can use a micron mesh bag over the filter's cartridge to filter out the fine particles.

POWER FILTERS are the most commonly used filters. They are simple to install and maintain. They all provide mechanical and chemical filtration and some units are also available with a source of biological filtration.

SUBMERSIBLE FILTERS are put inside the aquarium and are ideal for unusual installations where other filters cannot be used, or where additional circulation is desired.

UNDERGRAVEL FILTERS are designed for the sole purpose of providing biological filtration. This is done by circulating the water through the gravel bed and oxygenating it for the beneficial bacteria growth. They are operated with the use of an air pump or a power head. It is a good filter but has no place in a dedicated reef tank, as in about six months you have to take the tank down to clean the plates. This is not a chore you would look forward to doing.

WET/DRY FILTERS are the ultimate in aquarium filtration. They provide mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration for both fresh and saltwater aquariums. Biological filtration is taken to a new plateau by trickling or spraying water over a biological filter media; plastic balls, rings, etc., which is out of the water, hence the name wet/dry. As the water trickles over the dry part, it increases the available oxygen for the bacteria and substantially increasing the amount of beneficial bacteria growth. Wet/Dry filters have many accessories and components that are beneficial to your water quality.

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LIGHTING

Aquarium lighting serves many purposes. It illuminates the tank for our viewing, it provides the aquarium inhabitants with a natural sense of day and night, and it gives a neccessary source of light for photosynthesis in plants and invertebrates. Improper lighting can promote algae growth, make fish sluggish, and cause unhealthy plants, anemones, corals, and other invertebrates. The correct lighting will make fish and decorations appear more colorful, plants grow greener and healthier, and marine invertebrates thrive in their aquarium environment.

INCANDESCENT lighting is most commonly used for lighting your home. Incandescent bulbs used in lamps, desk lights, etc., provide a natural pleasing light, but are only useful for lighting very small aquariums. These bulbs produce a tremendous amount of heat and are not very energy efficient.

FLOURESCENT lighting is most widely used type of lighting for aquarium use. These energy efficient, cool operating, bright bulbs are available in a variety of lengths, wattages and spectral outputs. These bulbs can be used to light planted tanks and reef aquariums, when using multiple bulbs, various types can be used together to provide different lighting results.

METAL HALIDE lighting is the best possible lighting available for freshwater and saltwater reef aquariums. These bulbs produce high quality, extremely bright light. They are perfect for providing the intense lighting needed by corals and invertabrates. Metal halide lights are available in several different styles and fixtures, and wattages. They also produce heat and should be vented by use of muffin type fans on both sides of the hood to cool them. This will help in lamp life and keeping the heat from raising the water temperature. Different Kelvin ratings are now available for your use. The lowest I would recommend is 5,500k with the use of .03 actinic flourescent bulbs, to help in the blue spectrum. You will not need extra actinic .03 bulbs if you go higher in the Kelvin rating of your halide light. There are now 6,500k, 10,000k, 14,000k and 20,000k bulbs and they can be used in different combinations to get the best light spectrum for your tank. Using 20,000k's is good for deep tanks of 18inches and more, but you can do a great job with these and other lights. The choice is up to you. MH bulbs and fixtures are costly, but they will light your tank with the best light available.

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WATER QUALITY PARAMETERS

TEST	LOW	HIGH	SUGG. RANGE	YOURS
PH	8.1	8.5	8.20 - 8.40	=
DKH	5	12 - 13	8 - 10	=
TEMP	73F	86F	78 - 84 F	=
CA++	350	550	425 - 475	=
NITRATES	1	10	2 - 4	=
AMMONIA	0	+0	0	=
NITRITE	0	+0	0	=
SILICATE	0	1	-0.05	=
PO4	0.01	0.06	0.02 - 0.03	=
D.OX	6.00	12.00	8.00 - 9.00	=
ORP	300 - 325	550	425 - 475	=